Performance

when car was aspirated at 1820lbs with driver.
Best ET / 12.20 at Sacramento (on gas 12.24) (12.15 on muffler and slicks, 12.08 on the stinger and slicks.)
Best mph / 107.4  (on 165 radials 108.5)
Typical ET/MPH / 12.30's to 12.40's at 105
Best reaction time / .500 once
Worst reaction time / I wont admit to it at all

Now with Turbo currently trying to run the 11.90 index PRA supergas class. This takes around 7 lbs of boost at Sacramento.

during testing at Carlsbad raceway with 10 lbs of boost 11.47 at 115+

Engine specs.
Type 1
Displacement / 2332
Crank / Scat 84 mm
Rods / Pauter 4340 steel  5.7"
Pistons / Cima 94 mm
Rings / Cima
Cam / Engle 125, .460 lift, 301 dur.
Rockers / VW 1.25 with Berg shafts
            lift at valve, .485, (rockers =1.16)
Heads / Superflo 2, intake polished and VW
            valve cover rails added by EMS
Valves and Springs / Manley SS 44 x 37
            with Engle VW od dual springs
Compression / 8.5:1
Ignition / Bosch 009 w/Pertronix points, Bosch blue coil,
            MSD 7AL-2 w/2 step
Spark plugs / Champion L87-YC or Splitfire SF409C
Carburetion / Weber 48 IDA, 40 mm venturis, f-7 emulsion, 165 main, 200 air, 60 idle
            for gas, and 240 main, 165 air, 90 idle for alcohol.
Exhaust / 1 3/4" Berg merge with a 2 1/2" Dynomax super turbo muffler
Flywheel / 200 mm 15 lb.
Clutch / Old style Kennedy 2300 lb. with stock rigid disk
Oil / Valvoline half synthetic 20w-50
Oil pump / Melings 30 mm
Filter / System 1

NEW turbo for 2001 season.

TG Fabrication build system. 1 3/4 equal length header using to4 turbo, 650 holley double pumper modified by TG Fab.

Latest turbo gearing for 2001.

3.88 r&p, 3.78, 2.21, 1.65, 1.19

this will change for 2002 to a shorter 1st and 2nd

The car

With turbo and accesories like wheelie bars, scatter shield and cooling tin. the car now weighs in at 1900 with driver.

Weight 1820lbs with me in it
62 ragtop
Roll cage / JCL Race Cars
Color / Gulf Blue  code L390
Suspension / rear is stock with 14"limiter straps and bus snubbers  using stock shocks,
        front is modified select a drop with 90/10 shocks
Rims and tires / Centerline, front Parelli 135/15, rear as of april 99
        M&H 8 x 26 x 15 slicks with D.O.T. recap from Caldwell tire in Pasadena
        Pictured below

Fuel system. Holley blue with a standard (red) regulator running at 2.5psi. 1/2' tubing and dash 8 line are used from the pump to the regulator and from there I am using a dash 6 to the carbs.

these are the old tires, still a little tread on them, these are the ones i used for the big wheelies. They are an H78-15 bias ply white wall Good year with the cap from Caldwell.
These are the new tires, lots of tread.
a very expensive paper weight, i lost this rod at the 98 vegas race, it was out of round, and the bottom of the cap showed signs of burn marks, so i just bought a new one instead of rebuilding.
Another paper weight, I dropped the piston and bent the skirt and the scat rod has some cracks right around the bolts. The cracks were probably there for ever but when I found out, I sported for the Pauter rods.

The shock tower extensions that I made in 1990 or so to fit up the 90/10's from a 64-74 Chrysler set up.

Below are some pictures of the limiter straps that I use to keep the rear end from droping out in the event of an upset and to keep the alignment from getting too far out of wack.

This is the top mount of the rear shock and limiter straps on the rear. Notice I put in some washers to space out the shock. Plus keeping the strap as close to the mount as possible to keep up the shear strength of the bolt.

They are a 14 inch rancho limiter strap and if you need to get them just a little shorter, I just twist mine to correct length. (because they have stretched over the years.) Rear shocks are stock replacement with the top cover cut off.

The bottom mount. This view is from the rear of the car on the drivers side. I have mounted the bottom part of the strap on the other side of the bottom shock mount to keep up the shear strength of the bolt, plus it is lower then this side of the shock mount.

This is my suspension technician in the back ground. Cleo, my 3 1/2 pound when dripping wet Chihuahua. One of two that I have.

Notice the tire angle before the limiter straps. Having the suspension drop out this far can cause an upset in the alignment and send you on your head, not to mention there is only the small outside strip of the tire in contact with the ground.

After the straps are on.

This is one of the ways I use to get the straps bolted up. If I dont use this I would have to wait until the motor was in and some one was around and have them bounce on the rear as i squeeze under the car and slip the bottom bolt in.

A closer look at where the top strap is wrapped around. I must CAUTION YOU that doing this is a little dangerous. I am very careful of keeping my hands out of any and all places that might pinch my hands or even come down and hit them. Plus I use safety glasses in the event any thing comes flying apart like the chain that I am using. I would recommend buying one of those units from Kymko or where ever that is designed to compress the suspension safely.

Another way to stop down travel would be to weld a spacer in the place where the stock spring plate stop is. In the above picture to the left. If you do this kind of stop, you should put some sort of guard over it to keep the spring plate from flexing, or popping over it.

I use a set of old bus snubbers for the down travel stop.

This is the way Jimmy Larsen of JCL race cars ties in the cage to the rear frame horns. Just infront of the axles.

Notice the fuel line coming out of the tunnel.1/2" SS tubing connected to -8 braided line.

My trade mark. A Dynomax 2 1/2" super turbo muffler.